Upper East Side Best Food: Earl’s Beer and Cheese is more than just Manhattan’s best bar food
October 24, 2011
Earl’s Beer and Cheese has food that would make both Spicoli and Sifton swoon. Kimchi, fried pork belly, a fried egg, and shredded New York State cheddar on grilled Grandaisy sourdough ($8, above). Potato chips, Calabro mozzarella, dill pickles, and miso mayo on a toasted Thomas’ English muffin ($6, below).
Asian gnocchi and beef ($8, below) featuring griddled Korean rice cakes, perfectly chewy and crisp, ground beef and chili garlic sauce, scallions, shredded cheddar, and potato sticks, all in a cast iron cauldron.
Order the bread pudding ($8, below) quickly, it goes fast. On a busy Saturday night it also took a while to appear, but it’s worth the wait; a fuzzy crown of maple cotton candy crowns caramelized chunks of Grandaisy brioche soaking in a pool of sweet cream and cubes of Granny Smith apple like a French toast soup.
The combinations of flavors and ingredients leave you shaking your head in disbelief – how does it taste so good and how did they come up with this? Chef Corey Cova went from a cramped US Navy submarine kitchen to Momofuku Ssam Bar before arriving at the closet-sized Earl’s, a path to success as unlikely as that of the menu.
Earl’s Beer and Cheese Link 1259 Park Ave b/t 97th and 98th Street New York, NY 10029 (212) 289-1581 Open Mon-Wed 4pm-12am, Thurs 11am-12am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am, Sun 11am-12am, Kitchen closes 11pm nightly
October 24th, 2011 at 8:24 am
Oh yeah…and so close to my house. How come I’ve never been there?
October 24th, 2011 at 8:45 am
that looks and sounds absolutely ridiculous… only you can make me want to hit the bar at 9:30am on a Monday… wait, that’s my life that makes me want to do that.
October 24th, 2011 at 6:13 pm
@Adeena,
Better late than never! Get on over there!
@Team Mischa Missionary,
It tastes even better than it looks. Thanks for the comment. Sorry about your alcoholism.
October 25th, 2011 at 3:09 pm
I feel like it’s those unlikely paths to success that make the greatest (and usually also strangest) chefs and menus.
Also, I automatically love any restaurant/chef that’s as big a Grandaisy fan as I am.
October 26th, 2011 at 11:24 am
@Helena,
The Grandaisy sourdough was perfect in flavor and texture, especially when grilled. What other places remind you of Earl’s in their unlikely success?
October 28th, 2011 at 2:10 am
I can’t wait to try it!
I was thinking about this article I read on Eater last month: http://eater.com/archives/2011/09/27/scott-boswell-interview.php
I can’t think of any NYC places with chefs like this off the top of my head, but I know there are a handful I’ve heard of. But in general, I think it’s diverse experiences like these that lead people in general (and chefs in this case) to think creatively about their profession. Approaching things from a new perspective (dictated by experience) can give customers the satisfying difference they sometimes are seeking.
October 31st, 2011 at 3:38 pm
I love this place, unassuming little spot but the food is fantastic!! I had the prok belly grilled cheese, ridiculous flavor, also had some Rosemary Chicken Mac + Cheese which was also great and soul-satisfying. Now I need to go back and have that Asian Gnocchi.