NYC Spanish Food: Chorizo & Chocolate-Dipped Churros at Despana
October 27, 2008
There’s been a lot of love for Spanish tapas lately but did you ever wonder where you could buy all those delicious meats, cheeses and desserts and have tapas at home? The answer is Despana, a Spanish specialty food shop in SoHo on Broome Street between Cleveland Place and Lafayette Street. Walking through the store past a multitude of free samples, you’ll find a counter serving up authentic bocadillos (sandwiches), snacks and desserts. Did the chorizo sandwich impress? How do the churros compare to the traditional American version? Read on to find out…
It All Started as a Chorizo Factory
Despana was founded in 1971, in Jackson Heights, Queens, as a chorizo factory servicing the restaurant industry. This location still exists, as a wholesale and retail shop. In 2006 the SoHo retail location of Despana, which we’re reviewing today, was opened.
It Looks Good, But Did It Impress?
This $8.50 hot pressed sandwich is comprised of four ingredients: Despana Brand Chorizo, sliced manchego cheese, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, and a Grandaisy Ciabatta. On their own, each ingredient is high quality and delicious, but together, they lacked the marriage of flavor and texture I was hoping for. The namesake chorizo is grilled before being sandwiched, but it wasn’t grilled long enough to create the crispy, caramelized edges I’ve grown to enjoy in most chorizo tapas dishes. More char on the chorizo would elevate this sandwich.
The drizzle of olive oil was a nice touch, blending into the light, airy crevices of the warm and crisp Grandaisy Ciabatta. If I’m back at Despana, I would opt for another sandwich, perhaps the spicy Picante ($8.50) featuring “chorizo picante“, sliced Mahon (cow’s milk) cheese, piparras (Basque spicy guandilla peppers), sliced fresh tomato, and aioli. Check out the Bocadillo section of Despana’s website or Serious Eats NY for some other suggestions.
Are Churros Better at the Amusement Park?
Sadly, I have to say “yes.” If you’re expecting anything like the churros you’ve had at the zoo, the amusement park or at Cinnabon, then you’re in for a world of disappointment. Despana’s churros are made fresh by squeezing a frosting decorator filled with batter directly into hot oil. Unfortunately, an order of four ($3.50) arrives unsweet, overly crispy and sprinkled only with sugar, no cinnamon.
Chocolate Dipping Sauce Anyone?
One would assume that in the history of culinary vernacular, the term “chocolate dipping sauce” has never disappointed. Well, there’s a first time for everything. Despana’s chocolate dipping sauce ($3.75 with 2 churros) was thin and tasted like orange-flavored hot chocolate. It did nothing for the already underwhelming churros. I found out later that this was the replacement chocolate dipping sauce, Despana had run out of their standard, Chocolate a la Taza. This Spanish chocolate bar is broken up and mixed into simmering milk to create very thick chocolate dipping sauce. Without chocolate a la taza, Despana’s churros are not worth buying. I’ll still continue my churro with chocolate dipping sauce hunt, however. Next stop: Barrio Chino, on Broome St. between Orchard St. & Ludlow St.
Bring the Tapas Home
As I mentioned earlier, Despana is here to provide you with tapas at home. Click on the tapas section on the left side of their website’s and view individual menu items, photos included.
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