The Volstead’s Milk Chocolate Fondue is Awesome

May 6, 2008

Milk Chocolate Fondue. Wow. I’ve been down on fondue since the Artisanal disaster but The Volstead changed that by providing cubes of Rice Krispy Treats and fudge infused pound cake, sliced strawberries and bananas, and whole blackberries for dipping. Grilled pizza, tasty hummus, and sliced steak and creamed spinach bites rounded out a solid meal in a sexy atmosphere. The Volstead’s upping their stock further by offering free lunch Tuesdays all May to readers of Midtown Lunch.com. Delicious photos and the low down after the jump.

Cigarette-smoking finance workers greeted me as I entered The Volstead. I immediately thought I was in for a pretentious and expensive night. And while $7 Heinekens and $10 glasses of Chardonnay uphold the expensive concept, the eating experience turned out to be relaxed and affordable thanks to the diverse offering of small plates which weren’t very small at all.

We started with Buffalo Chicken Pops ($11), Fried Mac & Cheese Pops ($10), and Hummus with Olives and Warm Flatbread ($10).

You can skip both varieties of pops. The Chicken reminded me of elementary school cafeteria nuggets while the Buffalo sauce tasted buttery and cheesy without even a hint of spice. The Fried Mac & Cheese Pops were generic and bland, a waste of stomach space, especially considering how delicious the Hummus was.

The large portion size of the Hummus really validates its $10 price tag. A drizzle of olive oil melded perfectly with the flavors of the chick peas, cumin, and lemon, the last of which subtly shone through every bite. An extra portion of flatbread ($1) nearly got us through the entire bowl.

The Sliced Steak with Creamed Spinach ($19) was also well worth the price. Drops of horseradish mayo crowned thin slices of medium rare char-broiled steak resting on top of twenty pieces of toasted French bread smeared with creamed spinach. These one-bite beauties were delicious. The steak was tender and flavorful, and the bread was addictively crisp.

Unbeknownst to me, while awaiting my bacon cheeseburger, my friend ordered the Grilled Pizza of the day ($11). The long rectangular pizza may have been the most delicious appetizer of all. Each of the 10 rectangluar slices was crisp on the edges and soft in the middle and covered with chopped tomato, garlic, fresh basil, and fresh mozzarella.

If I knew how light, fresh and delicious the pizza was, I’d have ordered it as an entree instead of the Bacon Cheeseburger ($12.00 with cheese + $1 for bacon).

Although grilled over an open flame before being tossed into the oven to melt the cheese, this burger took a hit as a result of the bready, untoasted brioche bun. I’ve come to the conclusion that only the finest brioches do not need to be buttered and grilled. Mediocre brioche like this masks the flavor of the other ingredients.

I ordered the burger medium rare and it arrived closer to medium. The bacon was crisp, as ordered, but tasted like it had been hanging around for a while. The cheddar was bland and didn’t add any flavor, I’d opt for Monterey Jack. The burger is served with shredded Romaine lettuce and three slices of tomato sprinkled with salt and pepper. This odd spicing made the burger very salty so if you order bacon make sure you ask for no salt and pepper on your burger. The fries, served in a paper cone, were crispy and piping hot but of the generic skin on variety, nothing to make a fuss over despite their frites-like plating. During the 2nd half of my burger, I took off the lettuce and tomato and mixed a little mayo into my ketchup for an impromptu Russian dressing which complemented the burger well. In hindsight, I’d skip this burger next time in lieu of sharing the pizza, hummus, and sliced steak and so I could leave room for…

The Milk Chocolate Fondue ($14)!

This was by far the prize of the meal. The chocolate was warm and not overly sweet, leaving room for the Rice Krispy treats, pound cake, and fudgy marble cake to take over in the sugar department. Every side offering was fresh and delicious. If you’re smart you’ll take my pairing advice while dipping…

Pair the Rice Krispy treat with the sliced banana
Pair the Fudgy Marble Cake with the Sliced Strawberry

Dip, eat and enjoy!

Dinner and two drinks for 6 people ended up costing $45 each including tip, reasonable for a birthday celebration in Midtown, especially considering the wide array of delicious food each of us filled up on.

According to NYMag.com, The Volstead is the latest venture from the operators behind Tribe, Vig 27, Punch and Judy, and PS 450, so you have an idea of what you can expect. I was at The Volstead on a Thursday night. It was crowded with attractive and young professional men and women. Loud music blared from the speakers while the Yankees game was displayed on two flat screen TVs over the long, narrow bar. The remainder of the basement lounge/restaurant’s open space features tables, couches and a private room for small gatherings. I wouldn’t recommend The Volstead for a first date, it’s too loud for potentially uncomfortable conversation. The Volstead shines, however, when you’re with a group of people and you can share a multitude of small plates while enjoying good music and a casual atmosphere.

Dinner Menu