You would think the title of this post says it all. But in order to fully appreciate the greatness that is Jo’s Disco fries ($10 full order, $4 smaller side order), you have to understand the bacon gravy. The bacon flavor is so palpable, you’re left combing through strands of nutty, melted Gruyere looking for a slice of crispy pork. You won’t find it; the genius of the bacon gravy is that the smokey pork flavor is so deeply infused into the broth it’s more bacon than bacon. This is achieved through a process that can only be described as “moan-inducing,” because after you hear each step, you moan at the pure decadence of it all. Render down bacon and add red wine. Reduce. Add cream and chicken stock. Reduce. Put through a food mill and then through a chinoise (a fine mesh sieve). Reduce. Toss with crispy, skin-on shoestring fries and your choice of melted cheese (Gruyere, cheddar, bleu, or goat). The result is beyond moan-inducing, it’s profanity-inducing, simply because proper English doesn’t offer words to describe this level of taste bud overload.

Jo’s Link 264 Elizabeth St near Houston St New York, NY 10012 (212) 966-9640 Open Seven Days Dinner: Mon-Thurs 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am, Sun 5pm-12am, Brunch: Sat-Sun 11am-4pm, Happy Hour: Daily 5pm-8pm, Late Night Menu: Fri-Sat 12am-1am

The quote in the title of this post belongs to my lovely 20-year old sister Melissa. She knows what she’s talking about and she can eat, though you wouldn’t know by looking at her. Melissa and I have honed her palate with pancakes at Clinton Street Baking Company, burgers at the Burger Joint and Sicilian pies at Adrienne’s Pizza Bar. She used to be the girl who always ordered chicken fingers for dinner. Now she’s disappointed that Americans are content with processed cold cuts. Mention Boar’s Head and we applaud because it’s better than what they’re serving at Subway. These are sad statements about our turkey sandwich expectations. Torrisi brines their fresh turkey daily and tops it with thin, fresh veggies and a fiery eggplant-hot pepper sauce. A healthy dab of mayo ties it all together. Get the smaller version, on a squishy roll ($9), that way you don’t have to share.

Torrisi Italian Specialties 250 Mulberry Street at Prince Street, New York, NY 10012 (212) 965-0955 http://www.piginahat.com/ Sandwiches only available from 11am-4pm. Torrisi’s all-day sandwich operation, Parm, is opening next door in late September.

Thank you Pichet Ong.  Thank you for being willing to take risks when it comes to dessert.  And thank you for constantly reinventing sweet tooth satisfaction.  Your apple turnover with bacon vanilla ice cream at Village Tart offers so many varieties of awesome.  My spoon dissects the flaky, buttery pastry shell revealing fresh slices of crunchy apple coated in just enough gooey cinnamon.    Invisible salt crystals coat the surface of the pastry, surging to the front of my palate before the vanilla ice cream’s sweetness seizes control.  But an uprising of smokey top notes is surfacing, a prelude to the return of salt complements of crispy bits of bacon.  Every bite is a surprise, flavors seamlessly intersecting, gliding past each other closely without colliding.

Taco Salad with Shrimp ($7.50)

Mixed green salad topped with guacamole, sour cream, beans, cheese and choice of meat

What started as a genuine attempt at eating something moderately healthy turned into a bland mess.  The guacamole, sour cream, refried beans and slightly sharp cheese combine to create a mass of blandness which dominated the overcooked, over seasoned shrimp and the sparingly applied cilantro dressing. The shredded iceberg lettuce and chopped tomato waiting in the greasy taco shell below was far from mixed greens and didn’t provide the reward one deserves for mining through the mess which crowns this salad.

Al Pastor Taco ($2.95)

In my first review of Pinche’s SoHo location, the al pastor taco took the crown among the three I tried. It wasn’t as juicy, spicy or fresh this time around but it still hit the spot.  Fatty, chili pepper-spiced spit fire pork is shaved onto a single fresh tortilla and sprinkled with onion, cilantro and two types of mild salsa. If the heat you desire is lacking, ask for some hot sauce.

Nachos ($6.25)

The only thing missing from this delicious mess of hand made chips, melted cheese, guacamole, sour cream, beans, and slices of pickled jalapeno was the presence of salsa or chopped tomato to balance out the creaminess with something acidic.  This is a great order of nachos, with cheese that actually infiltrates the top layer of chips and touches bottom. But like all nachos, you need to work on them quickly otherwise you’re left with piles of congealed cheese resting on soggy chips, which in the end is really not that bad.

Pinche Taqueria

Beauty & The Beast

10 oz. Prime Burger ($15.95, served at lunch only) with cheddar, lettuce, tomato & onion

Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House

If you’re looking to eat a beast of a burger in a beautiful atmosphere, Del Frisco’s burger is for you.  The burger arrived topped with sharp cheddar and complementary sugar-cured bacon which had been slow-cooked 4 hours.  The slightly-sweet bun was lightly toasted but remained airy and soft.

As a steak house burger, the sweet flavor of the beef shined through foremost, so much so that ketchup isn’t really necessary.   The fresh-tasting 10 ounce patty arrived a perfectly cooked to order medium rare but the slow-cooked bacon stole the show. It was incredibly savory and melted in your mouth, some of the finest bacon I’ve tasted.

The mildly sharp cheddar offered a flavor that didn’t meld with the clean-tasting burger.  The bun also had issues,  it was too flimsy to stand up to the juiciness of a burger this size.  As you can see below, the burger overtook the bun resulting in final bites that were all burger and no bread.

At $11.95 per order, the onion rings are sweet and crispy but unnecessary.  They failed to enhance the burger when placed on top and eaten in the sandwich and they stole valuable stomach space.  The homemade potato chips were similarly defeating, arriving room temperature and lacking any purpose of flavor.  Steer clear of both, in addition to the complementary bread offered at the beginning of the meal, if you want to get your moneys worth with the burger.

The Australian Burger

Whaleys ($12.50) Premium ground beef, tomato, lettuce, beet, pineapple, fried egg, ketchup

Bronte ($11) Premium ground beef, tomato, lettuce, sweet chili, mayo, cheese

Ruby’s Cafe & Bar

This easy-to-miss, 4-table Australian bar and cafe offers 5 types of burgers, two with chicken breast, in addition to some interesting pastas, paninis, salads and breakfast until 1pm.  No French fries or chips are offered.  The Whaleys, seen below, is the most unique burger on the menu but it’s diverse ingredients didn’t create any harmony around the meatloaf-like burger.

More aptly described as a massive meat sandwich, the Whaleys arrives on a crisp but untoasted ciabatta roll which hardly hugs the cumbersome ingredients.  It’s awkward texturally and poorly constructed, the entire sandwiched dominated by the sweetness of the pineapple and ketchup cut against the garlicky beef patty. The overcooked fried egg repelled from the burger and the cold beets, tomato and pineapple continued to detract from the overall unity.  Only the accompanying mixed greens salad dressed in a savory balsamic vinaigrette shined.

The Bronte burger (below), made famous at Kingswood, another Australian restaurant owned by Ruby’s proprietors, was more in tune overall.  Sweet chili sauce and mayo rest atop two slices of melted Swiss cheese which keeps the burger tied to the ciabatta.  I recommend this burger, which may be better as a chicken breast sandwich, over the Whaleys.

If I return to Ruby’s, it would be to pair a non-burger offering with one of their three Australian beers: James Boag, Coopers and Lucky.  Lucky ($7), which comes in a Buddha shaped bottle, was delicious, reminiscent of a lighter, more bubbly Red Stripe.

The Heart-Stopper

Chili Bacon Cheeseburger ($16)

Great Jones Cafe

My first impression: “Wow, I am a carnivore.”  This meat-lover’s burger, served in the cozy, dimly lit confines of this friendly bar and restaurant delivers 3 slices of well-crisped bacon and a light coating of “Mission” beef chili (beef, red beans, celery) crowned atop a massive, griddled beef patty.  It’s all sandwiched between an airy yet sturdy bun from Parisi bakery, the top half of which a healthy amount of cheddar is melted upon.

Overall this massive burger lacked the flavor punch one would hope for.  The juicy yet slightly overcooked burger would have benefited from a nice charbroiling, the flavor of smoke and fire would have added some much needed depth.  The bacon was superfluous, hearty but standard.  The “Mission” beef chili, one of a rotating menu of chili, was mild and thin.  After failing to create the spice I desired by adding some El Yucateco habanero hot sauce, I requested some chopped green jalapenos to add onto the burger.  The flavor of the peppers was a nice touch, but the spicy bite I desired to complement the sweetness of the bun, was missing.

Opt for the sweet potato fries, some of the best I’ve had, over the hand-cut fries below.  The sweet potato fries cut through the saltiness of the chili cheese burger but the heavily-salted regular hand-cut fries, made from a darker potato than your standard Idaho, didn’t complement the burger quite as well.   They would, however, make a great base for chili cheese fries.

I’d just as soon return to Great Jones Cafe to drink as I would to sample some of their other reasonably priced home-cooked offerings such as the Barbque Ribs or the Garlic Shrimp Sautee. A new menu of daily specials accompanies the quality beer menu, which during Happy Hour (5-7PM Daily) allows you to enjoy a $3 pint while listening to Bluegrass on the old school jukebox.

Taco de Carne Asada ($2.95), Taco al Pastor ($2.95) and Taco de Pescado ($3.95)

The Taco al Pastor is Numero Uno

Spit-grilled pork is where its at; I’m talking about layers of chili pepper and pork roasting over an open flame and then shaved into a handmade tortilla and topped with chopped onions, cilantro, and a dollop guacamole. The flavors of fire, tender, fatty pork, and the underlying heat from the chilies combine with the fresh cilantro and onion to create my favorite of the three tacos I tried. The tortillas are small, but there’s a lot of meat and toppings packed into each one.

Fish Tacos Worth Reeling In Again

Pinche’s fried Mahi-mahi fish tacos have received some praise of late but while I enjoyed the crunchy cabbage and cilantro-mayo sauce, the actual fried fish arrived cold. The result was tasty but disappointing and the manager blamed it on a new fryer. I enjoyed it more than the Kingfish taco at Pampano Taqueria but I withhold my final judgement, and put the opinion to my readers, until a future tasting.

Pass On Carne Asada

There’s a fine line between a good grilled steak taco and a mediocre one. Unfortunately, the trend tends to skew toward the latter. The problem is that the pieces of chopped steak are usually dry and somewhat flavorless. At Pinche the steak in the carne asada taco was slightly moist but generally flavorless. The only saving graces were the onion, cilantro and guacamole.

Beware the Trap of the Yucca Fries

Don’t get me wrong, fried yucca is delicious. The only problem is that it’s heartier than potato and it fills you up a lot quicker. Although Pinche’s yucca fries ($4.50), which come with either cilantro mayo or roasted jalapeno ketchup, are tasty, they’re best when shared, otherwise this crispy snack will steal space for the main meal: tacos.

Taqueria and a Whole Lot More

Looking at Pinche’s menu, its a wonder how they can offer so many delicious dishes in such a small space. I recommend you come for breakfast, served until 4PM, to get a taste of their exemplary Heuvos Rancheros ($5.65 with rice, beans and tortillas), a personal reccomendation from the manager. This same manager also recommends the massive salads (bottom right on the menu) which come with your choice of meat.

Click on photos for Hi-Res Full Size Images

Pinche’s New Location

If you’re out drinking in the West Village, SoHo or even the East Village, you’re in luck. Pinche recently opened a new branch of their authentic taqueria at the corner of Lafayette Street and Bleecker Street, in the former space of Sparky’s. From Wednesday through Saturday you can now eat Pinche’s delicious Mexican food until 4AM. Liquor license is on the way.

Pinche Taqueria

It All Started as a Chorizo Factory

Despana was founded in 1971, in Jackson Heights, Queens, as a chorizo factory servicing the restaurant industry. This location still exists, as a wholesale and retail shop. In 2006 the SoHo retail location of Despana, which we’re reviewing today, was opened.

It Looks Good, But Did It Impress?

This $8.50 hot pressed sandwich is comprised of four ingredients: Despana Brand Chorizo, sliced manchego cheese, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, and a Grandaisy Ciabatta. On their own, each ingredient is high quality and delicious, but together, they lacked the marriage of flavor and texture I was hoping for. The namesake chorizo is grilled before being sandwiched, but it wasn’t grilled long enough to create the crispy, caramelized edges I’ve grown to enjoy in most chorizo tapas dishes. More char on the chorizo would elevate this sandwich.

The drizzle of olive oil was a nice touch, blending into the light, airy crevices of the warm and crisp Grandaisy Ciabatta. If I’m back at Despana, I would opt for another sandwich, perhaps the spicy Picante ($8.50) featuring “chorizo picante“, sliced Mahon (cow’s milk) cheese, piparras (Basque spicy guandilla peppers), sliced fresh tomato, and aioli. Check out the Bocadillo section of Despana’s website or Serious Eats NY for some other suggestions.

Are Churros Better at the Amusement Park?

Sadly, I have to say “yes.” If you’re expecting anything like the churros you’ve had at the zoo, the amusement park or at Cinnabon, then you’re in for a world of disappointment. Despana’s churros are made fresh by squeezing a frosting decorator filled with batter directly into hot oil. Unfortunately, an order of four ($3.50) arrives unsweet, overly crispy and sprinkled only with sugar, no cinnamon.

Chocolate Dipping Sauce Anyone?

One would assume that in the history of culinary vernacular, the term “chocolate dipping sauce” has never disappointed. Well, there’s a first time for everything. Despana’s chocolate dipping sauce ($3.75 with 2 churros) was thin and tasted like orange-flavored hot chocolate. It did nothing for the already underwhelming churros. I found out later that this was the replacement chocolate dipping sauce, Despana had run out of their standard, Chocolate a la Taza. This Spanish chocolate bar is broken up and mixed into simmering milk to create very thick chocolate dipping sauce. Without chocolate a la taza, Despana’s churros are not worth buying. I’ll still continue my churro with chocolate dipping sauce hunt, however. Next stop: Barrio Chino, on Broome St. between Orchard St. & Ludlow St.

Bring the Tapas Home

As I mentioned earlier, Despana is here to provide you with tapas at home. Click on the tapas section on the left side of their website’s and view individual menu items, photos included.

Despana

Special Margherita with pan fried crispy prosciutto, green onions and extra virgin olive oil

Pizza al Tartufo – Portobello pesto, mushrooms, mozzarella, rosemary and truffle oil

Pizza Mela – Mozzarella, Gorgonzola, asparagus, apple, truffle oil

L’Asso’s Pies are a Science, Literally

I stumbled upon L’Asso after being invited to the L’Asso Pizza Guide Release Party. An insert in the satirical newspaper The Onion, this pizza guide was anything but; it outlined everything from the history of pizza to L’Asso’s strict adherence to the Italian government’s rules on what constitutes a genuine Neapolitan pie (Denominazione di origine Controllata or Pizza D.O.C., click & scroll down for the six rules).

L’asso’s owner, Robert Benevenga, seen on the pizza guide’s cover above, is so serious about his pies that he earned a degree in engineering before perfecting his pie-making technique. To quote Benevenga in the “L’asso Pizza guide”:

“Most pizza places will scoop sauce on with a ladle first and then sprinkle cheese all over it.  So basically, the sauce acts like a slip and slide, forcing most of the hot sauce and cheese to slide out of your mouth and onto your face. … I take the round dough, place the bufalo mozzarella slices all over so they act like suction cups.  Then I pour the sauce in the valleys so each slice holds the traditional ingredients, as well as the toppings, in place.  This makes every bite separate but equal.”

Put simply by Benevenga, it’s all about “the most variety at the highest possible quality. It’s the style that I like. … thin with lots of flavor that pops.” Couldn’t have said it better myself.

We are entering a new Pizza Frontier

Other than the toppings listed on a pizza delivery box, I’m inexperienced.  I was surprised, therefore, to see pies covered in toppings such as apples, pears, walnuts, and asparagus exiting the specially designed 2-door brick, wood-burning oven.  I was even more surprised how delicious everything tasted.  Pies come in three sizes 12″, 18″ and 29″ and all vary in price.

Pizza Mela – Mozzarella, gorganzola, asparagus, apple, truffle oil

Prices: $14, $20, $26 (below)

The apple and asparagus really lightened up a pizza in danger of being too heavy due to the two cheeses. The truffle oil subtly added an earthy, faintly spicy complexity to the overall flavor.  Texturally, the hot oven and thin pie allowed the apples and asparagus to remain juicy and crisp.

Pizza alla Roba – Mozzarella, Gorgonzola, Pear & Walnuts

Prices: $13, $19, $25

Whereas the Pizza Mela (above) combined several flavors which tend to fight for the attention of your taste buds, the Pizza all Roba takes a different approach: the two stronger ingredients (Gorgonzola, Pear) are balanced out by the two quieter ingredients (mozzarella, walnuts).  The result is a delicious confluence of flavor and texture and a pie which I’d definitely eat again.

Pizza al Tartufo – Portobello pesto, mushroom, mozzarella, rosemary and truffle oil

Prices: $13, $19, $25

Lacking any serious pesto flavor, this pizza is dominated by earthy ingredients which are still tasty and fresh.  The rosemary provides a bright undertone to counteract the mushroom and truffle oil. Not nearly my favorite pie, but still tasty.

Pizza Margherita – Tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, oregano, basil and extra virgin olive oil

Prices: $10, $16, $22

Oregano and fresh basil unite to overtake the Margherita.  The sauce is tasty but takes a backstage to the olive oil coated crust, which tasted even better when mixed with cheese, sauce and basil.  I didn’t get to try the Pizza Margherita D.O.C. (bufalo mozzarealla instead of fresh mozzarella), but the result would be an even lighter and more delicate pie.

Pizza Mascarpone Tartufata – Mascarpone cheese, portobello mushrooms, Gorgonzola and truffle oil

Prices: $14, $20, $26

My least favorite pie. The mascarpone melted into a dangerously hot cheese sauce and overtook the pizza.  I’ll pass on this pie next time.

Special Margherita Pie – Mozzarella, fried, crispy prosciutto, green onions, extra virgin olive oil

Prices and Availability Vary, Call Ahead to find out the weekly specials 212-219-2353

This was the first and most memorable pie I tasted. The prosciutto was so fried and crisp, I initially mistook it for bacon.  The salt factor is balanced out by the bright sauce and slightly sweet green onions.  L’asso’s specials menu changes weekly (pizza and dessert), so you may not find this pie upon your visit.

Pizza Snow White – Fresh mozzarella, ricotta, garlic, oregano and extra virgin olive oil

Prices: $11, $17, $23

At first I found this pie to be bland and underwhelming, then I discovered a bite with toasted chopped garlic (2nd photo below, top left corner) and found what I was looking for. Be strategic with your bites if you order this pie, try to get garlic in every bite.

Pizza 4 Formaggi – Provolone, Gorgonzola, Mozzarella and Parmesan

Prices: $13, $19, $25

A surprisingly mundane combo of cheeses. None truly stand out and the flavor was lacking an expected sharpness.

So Which is the Owner’s Favorite Pizza?

Our natural inclination would be to assume that after four years of business, Robert Benevenga probably enjoys some strange varieties of pizza. Surprisingly, his favorite pie at L’asso is the Margherita DOC XX.  The “XX” is what makes this pie his favorite, but you can only discover the secret in the L’asso pizza guide or by heading to L’asso to find out first hand.

L’asso

What to Eat:

Quesadilla Simple ($5.00) filled with salty, stringy queso oaxaca and fresh pico de gallo. Delicious even without the side of salsa verde. Best quesadilla Lil’ NYC Food Guy has ever had. Thanks to Mark Lewis for recommendation.

Carne Enchilada Taco ($3.00) grilled achiote rubbed pork, cilantro, onions, pineapple, salsa verde. The perfect combo of spicy (tender pork & tangy salsa verde) and sweet (chunks of fresh pineapple).

Papa, Nopales Y Chorizo Taco ($3.50) chorizo sausage, potatoes, cactus, salsa verde. More of a textural adventure with combo of spicy chorizo, starchy potato and crisp yet bland (like cabbage) shredded cactus. Better with a squeeze of lime.

• What: Informal, Affordable & Authentic Mexican Taqueria open until 2AM nightly.
• Where: 106 Kenmare Street b/t Lafayette St. & Cleveland Place NY, NY 10012 Delivery:646-613-1333
• Website: http://www.esquinanyc.com/
• Inside info: The taqueria is a front for the “secret” Mexican restaurant downstairs. You can only reach it by reservation or knowing someone at the door. It’s a scene but it’s also a great date spot.

More Tacos & Mexican Food Here

More Late Night Eats Here