“I wish they did this four times a year,” said my brother Craig as we watched Chris Lilly pull two shimmering pork butts from the smoker, some of the 3,000 pounds of pork cooked by the Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q crew at this year’s Big Apple BBQ Block Party.  Lilly, 8-time Memphis In May Champion and co-creator of Big Bob Gibson’s famous Bar-B-Q sauce, then proceeded to pull, chop and sauce the best pulled pork I’ve ever tasted.  Read on for the step-by-step pulled pork photos and a look at some other hits and misses at the 2009 Big Apple BBQ Block Party.

The Disappointments

Disclaimer: All the opinions within this post are written with the utmost respect for the art of barbecue and the pitmasters who took part in the Big Apple BBQ Block Party.   The barbecue they served in Manhattan, adjusted for the masses under imperfect conditions, may not be a fair representation of the delicacies served at each of the participants original establishments.

Ubon’s “The Champion’s Choice” Pulled Pork – Yazoo, MS

My friend Charlie recommended Ubon’s after hearing it was the best pulled pork at the event.  His source had obviously not tasted Big Bob Gibson’s.  The best part of Ubon’s pulled pork was the bark, the dark shards of skin redolent of smokey deliciousness.  The pork itself was fatty, a bit tough and didn’t have much flavor.  The thin sauce was flecked with black pepper but more tangy than spicy.

Pappy’s Smokehouse St. Louis Style Ribs – St. Louis, MO

Our hopes rose as we watched Mike “Smokey” Emerson pull rack after rack of St. Louis spare ribs from a huge container.  Mr. Emerson, also known as “Pappy,” cuts the knuckle off of the tough spare rib before coating each rack in a Memphis-style dry rub.  He mainly serves “loin back” or baby back ribs at his St. Louis smokehouse (link), but today he proudly brandished a rack of spare ribs and said “I wanted to give New York a taste of St. Louis.”

He should have stuck with the baby backs because the spare ribs weren’t great.  The flavor of smoke was almost undetectable.  The ribs were as tough as you’d expect, not quite fall off the bone, and not even the sweet, thick sauce could save them.

17th Street Bar & Grill Baby Back Ribs – Murphysboro, IL

After the spare rib disappointment at Pappy’s, I was hoping for baby back rib enlightenment at 17th Street Bar & Grill, the baby of champion pitmaster Mike Mills, a consultant at Manhattan’s Blue Smoke.  Unfortunately, transcendence was out of reach.  The ribs were dry, covered in a pasty mustard-based sauce and didn’t fall off the bone.  A friend later scoffed at my choice of 17th Street saying they weren’t very good in 2008 either.

The Favorites

Jim ‘N Nick’s Bar-B-Q Homemade Smoked Sausage with Pimento Cheese & Saltines – Birmingham, AL

Cheese? Crackers? Sliced jalapeno? One might wonder how these accoutrement found their way onto any plate at the BABBP, but I’m certainly happy they did because they paired perfectly with the charred, spicy sausage from Jim ‘N Nick’s. The combo of spicy pork, creamy cheese, crispy crackers, and bright jalapenos was a flavor trip I’d love to take again.

The Salt Lick BBQ Beef Brisket & Sausage – Driftwood, TX

If you’re wondering why it says “brisket” above but you don’t see any below, it’s because the pink slices of fatty meat are so delicious, Salt Lick ran out by 3PM on the first day of the BABBP.  Lucky for Craig and me they still had some of their juicy, garlicky and slightly spicy sausage.  Sweet sauce covered an outer skin with just the right amount of snap.

Big Bob Gibson’s Bar-B-Q Pulled Pork Shoulder – Decatur, AL

Wow.  Just wow.  If ever there was a moment I was happy to have written a year’s worth of posts to get from the 2008 BABBP to now, it was when Don & Carol McLemore, owners of Big Bob Gibson, offered us the chance to stand directly in front of the raised cutting board upon which the best pork shoulder ever was being pulled.  Let’s see how it all comes together….

Step 1. Remove the bone and pull

Step 2. Chop the Pulled Pork with a Huge Knife

Step 3. Drench Pork in Apple Juice-based liquid

Step 4. Look at all that delicious pulled pork

]]> http://nycfoodguy.com/2009/06/23/babbp2009/feed/ 15 http://nycfoodguy.com/2009/04/29/williamsburg-brooklyn-sandwich-tour-part-1-bedford-cheese-shop-marlow-sons/ http://nycfoodguy.com/2009/04/29/williamsburg-brooklyn-sandwich-tour-part-1-bedford-cheese-shop-marlow-sons/#comments Thu, 30 Apr 2009 00:27:03 +0000 The NYC Food Guy http://nycfoodguy.com/?p=3407 Most New Yorkers claim to be ready for adventure but when someone mentions Brooklyn, the typical response is “what a schlep!”  Enough is enough, it’s time to hop on the L train and discover our neighbor to the east, Williamsburg, Brooklyn. A hood where family establishments stand along side the nouveau.  There’s no better way to read a neighborhood’s pulse than by their sandwiches, the true barometer of people’s desire for value and delicious food.   We’ve seen what comes out of Red Hook and Sunset Park so when my friend Charlie told me his cousin and Williamsburg expert, Andrea, was ready to open my eyes with a full tour of her hood, I gladly accepted.  Part one offers NYCFoodGuy’s take on Bedford Cheese Shop and Marlow & Sons.

Spicy & Mild Chorizo at Bedford Cheese Shop

Front of the room fare - Desserts, Scones & Muffins from Marlow & Sons

Bedford Cheese Shop aka the Hipster Stiff Arm

We came for sandwiches, we left with chorizo and a vendetta against laissez-faire hipsters.  There was one tray of pre-made sandwiches on the counter, bread on the back wall and a ton of meats and cheeses in the display cases.  A perfect recipe for sandwich creation, right? Wrong.  One employee of this bedroom-sized cheese and meat shop didn’t even take the time to unfold his arms from his hooded sweatshirt while telling us, “No, we don’t make sandwiches here.  That’s the only one we have.”  This was news to Andrea, my lovely tour guide for the day, because she has had sandwiches made for her at Bedford Cheese Shop.  We immediately realized we were victims of the hipster stiff arm.

Spicy (red string) & Mild (white string) Chorizo at Bedford Cheese Shop

My friend and all around good guy Charlie, was just as surprised by the confused and annoyed look he received from the counter-girl when he asked her to slice the spicy Spanish chorizo he purchased. God forbid we actually wanted to eat it right then and there.  The hipster stiff arm strikes again!

I will not be returning to Bedford Cheese Shop next time I’m in Williamsburg because I like patronizing stores that appreciate my business. Bedford Cheese Shop is too cool for school but unfortunately for them, NYC Food Guy says class is not in session.

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Marlow & Sons Is Not Worth The Trip for Lunch

I haven’t been to the heralded Marlow & Sons for dinner, but after trying several of their early afternoon offerings, I can confidently say it’s not worth trekking to this southwest Williamsburg spot for lunch.   If you happen to be nearby, and want to stop in, your best bet is pizza or something from the dessert counter, but pass on sitting down for brunch.  I can’t speak to the deliciousness of dinner at Marlow & Sons, but all of the press I’ve read has generally been positive.

Marlow & Sons Dining Room Interior

Nothing we ate was bad, but nothing really impressed.  Since it was a sandwich tour, we started with the Muffaletta ($11), flimsy focaccia stuffed with mortadella, sopressata, salami, coppa, provolone and an overpowering olive tapenade.  For $11 I would like to see this New Orleans classic stuffed with a little more meat and a little less olive tapenade, which really dominated every bite.

Marlow & Sons Muffaletta ($11) was overwhelmed by olive tapenade

Chorizo with potatoes and sunny side eggs ($12) was recommended by our waiter and while it was tasty, the tomato-based sauce didn’t allow the chorizo’s spice to shine.  The best bites of this dish are when you pile a little bit of everything on the buttered and toasted slices of bread.

Chorizo & Eggs ($12) lacked the spice I was hoping for

The pizza with sopressata ($4.25) was easily my favorite dish of the meal.  The flavor was definitely homemade, from the airy crust to the sweet sauce, but the slightly sharp sections of burnt cheese were the best part.

Pizza with Sopressata ($4.25) is best where the cheese is burnt

Marlow & Sons front room, which turns into a dining area in the evening, is populated by a few others pizzas, sold by the slice…

Marlow & Sons Front Room Fare - Pizza by the slice ($4.25 each)

…a nice selection of other sandwiches…

Front of the room fare - Sandwiches at Marlow & Sons

…desserts including attractive white cake, milk chocolate frosted cupcakes…

Front of the room fare - Milk Chocolate Frosted Cupcakes from Marlow & Sons

…other cupcakes, scones and muffins…

Front of the room fare - Cupcakes, Muffins & Scones at Marlow & Sons

and a chocolate chip cookie featuring discs of bittersweet chocolate ensconsed in a buttery, slightly salty dough.  It was a tasty cookie, but nothing to write home about.

Front of the room fare - Chocolate Chip Cookie from Marlow & Sons

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French Dip ($10.95, +$1.00 for fried onions)

Roast beef with natural gravy on garlic bread with french fries, cole slaw & pickle

Fried onions arrived crispy as requested and fell out in strands from the garlic butter-adorned toasted Kaiser Roll.  The fried onions are essential as the ordinary jus leaves the flavor of the fresh, well-stacked roast beef flat.

Fried onions are well worth the extra dollar and I’d consider spending even more for some melted mozzarella or provolone cheese.  At one point I added a slice of a friend’s bacon to the sandwich but it didn’t really enhance.

Whole Wheat Honey Pancakes filled with strawberries and walnuts ($11.35)

$6.25 +$2.55  per topping

More dessert than breakfast, these light but cakey flapjacks certainly don’t conjure memories of whole wheat, especially once they’re spread with butter and syrup.  The key is making sure to ask the waiter that your strawberries and walnuts are BAKED INTO the batter.

Juicy sliced strawberry and crunchy walnuts line the inside of the three nice size pancakes.  This would be great to split if paired with another entree, but the portion is mangeable for one as well.

The Remaining “Specialty Sandwiches”

$10.95 each, deluxe (french fries, cole slaw & pickle) included

Balboa grilled roast beef smothered with Swiss cheese and fried onions

Shuttle Burger Deluxe 8 oz. beef burger on toasted bun with cheddar cheese, topped with chili and onions

Tuna or Patty Melt Deluxe with American, Swiss or meunster cheese on rye bread

Dynamic Duo open steamed corned beef & pastrami on toasted hero with melted Swiss

Steamed Corned Beef or Pastrami on Garlic Bread

Bar-B-Que House Special sliced beef with barbecue sauce on a roll

Reuben corned beef or pastrami with tangy sauerkraut and melted Swiss cheese, grilled on rye bread

House Special grilled Swiss cheese

Galaxy Diner

Problem #1: the $19.94 total!  For fries and a chicken sandwich! You can see from the photo below that its a big sandwich. If you measure it out with your fingers against the football, the heights are pretty similar.  But most of the height came from the vegetables not the cheese and not the bacon, which brings us to problem #2.

Problem #2: the $2.00 bacon never made its way onto the sandwich. $5.00 afforded a copious amount of curly fries which were crispy as requested. The generic breading on the all white meat breast was a little over-fried but the chicken itself was juicy and tasty.  The only excitement surrounding the generic roll were the sesame seeds.

I’ll give these guys a little time to work out the kinks before I return and do something crazy like order the “Sticky Burger,” which features peanut butter spread over bacon.  Until then, I’ve got a mission for the readers: Check out Kool Bloo (here’s the menu) and let me know in the comments section what you ordered and how it turned out.

Kool Bloo

Multiple Locations (Find One Near You)

Australian Packaging, Worldly Deliciousness

You haven’t heard of them because they’re Australian, which only makes them more awesome.  But now, Pepperidge Farm is selling Tim Tams at Target stores until March 2009, which means we only have 5 months to stock up on Tim Tams and tell Pepperidge Farm we want them to stay.  Good thing for us, Tuck Shop, on 1st Street between 1st & 2nd Avenue, is selling Tim Tams FOREVER! I’ve introduced them to at least a dozen people in the last few weeks and everyone says they’re delicious.

Australia & America, Together At Last

Amazingly, Tim Tams are not even the most delicious dessert at Tuck Shop, where they specialize in Australian street food (nothing like the Halal Guys).  In fact, two of the best desserts I’ve ever had can only be found at Tuck Shop: Lamingtons and Vanilla Slice. Click here for even MORE deliciousness.

Tuck Shop’s Official Website

Salami & Eggs on a Roll $7.95

When I was NYC Food Kid growing up in Queens, NYC Food Mom would fry up some salami and mix it with scrambled eggs. Simple and delicious. It’s been a long time since I had that meal, and Sarge’s is the perfect place to rejuvenate a childhood favorite. The salami was fried, just like the old days, but unfortunately it wasn’t mixed in with the eggs. I’ll make sure to ask for that, and a toasted roll, next time.

Matzo Brie with Apple Sauce $9.45

If we’re on the topic of meals that would make Grandma proud, matzo brie is in the top 10. Traditionally a Passover food, matzo brie is truly delicious anytime of the year. Eggs are mixed with pre-soaked, broken matzo then fried up in a buttered pan. You can eat your matzo brie with salt and pepper or cinnamon and sugar. I’m a fan of the sweet variety. Sarge’s version was spot on. It arrived piping hot and slightly sweet. Maple syrup is available upon request, but they lose points for not having extra cinnamon and sugar.

Hearty Crinkle Cut French Fries $4.95

As far as late night fries go, there’s nothing better than Ziggiz, but It’s still great to find something other than the standard diner fry, particularly hearty fries that can soak up the late night beverages more efficiently. Make sure to ask for Sarge’s fries well done because if you don’t, you’ll encounter the only drawback to hearty fries: sogginess.

Free Pickles & Cole Slaw

What would any kosher style deli be without a free appetizer of pickles and cole slaw? I like full sour pickles, and Sarge’s version was quality but a little dry (I don’t take away points considering it was 3:30AM when I was eating there). The cole slaw is better than standard diner fare; sweet and crunchy, it struck a good balance between mayonnaise and vinegar.

Deliciousness to Look Forward To

Two words: “Sarge’s Favorite.” We’re talking beef brisket over a crispy potato pancake all covered in gravy. It’s gonna run you $15.45, but I don’t see how you could go wrong, especially since Sarge’s prepares all its own meats (turkey, pastrami, corned beef, roast beef, and brisket). Several employees at Sarge’s also recommended their flame broiled burgers (though King of Ketchup disagrees), and if you’re reading this site, I think you know how I feel about burgers.

Sarge’s Delicatessen

Photo: Billyboy at Roadfood.com

• What: NYC Food Guy’s favorite late night slice is also my favorite in the West Village. The Nonna Maria is covered in fresh mozz, grated grande mozz, and house-made marinara sauce before being sprinkled with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. The cornmeal covered crust takes backseat to the robust, flavorful toppings.
• Cost: $2.75
• Website: http://bleeckerstreetpizza.com/
• Where: 69 7th Ave South at Bleecker Street NY, NY 10014 212-924-4466
• Inside info: Forget Joe’s Pizza for late night slices, Bleecker Street Pizza is open until after 4AM on weekends and there’s actually room for you to sit and enjoy your slice. They also sell beer and small bottles of wine so you can keep the party going while you enjoy your slice.

• What: Decadent vanilla custard, with a consistency similar to banana pudding, sandwiched between two slices of pastry puff covered in vanilla icing. What more do I have to say? Despite its sloppy appearance, it remains one of the best desserts I’ve ever had.
• Cost: $3 for a massive slice
• Where: 68 East 1^st Street b/t 1^st & 2^nd Avenue NY, NY 10003 212-979-5200
• Website: http://www.tuckshopnyc.com/
• Inside info: Tuck Shop serves Australian street food including delicious meat pies and lamingtons (pound cake with jam in the middle rolled in chocolate and coconut) until 5AM on Friday & Saturday. Pick up some Tim Tams, on the popularity level with Oreos in Australia, from the tiny grocery section. They’re the best packaged cookies I’ve ever had. Look into the Tim Tam Slam for maximum enjoyment.

Tuck Shop Full Review

More Late Night Eats

• What: Forget Pommes Frites, Ziggiz serves Manhattan’s best and biggest order of fries for a mere $2.16! Thin, crisp and double-fried, these fries are even better after a night on the town. You can get an overflowing order of addictive and delicious fries until 3AM Thursday and 5AM Friday and Saturday.
• Cost: $2.16!!!!
• Where: 333 3^rd Avenue near 25^th Street NY, NY 10010 212-683-3663
• Inside info: All the other food at Ziggiz is standard grease pit fare, including their namesake burgers, cheese steaks and burritos. Quesadillas and burritos come with onions in them so make sure to speak up if you don’t want them. Stick with the fried stuff here (mozzarella sticks and chicken fingers) and you can’t go wrong.

Manhattan’s Best Fries Here

More Pics of Food at Ziggiz Here

More Late Night Eats Here

More Cheap Eats Here

What to Eat:

Quesadilla Simple ($5.00) filled with salty, stringy queso oaxaca and fresh pico de gallo. Delicious even without the side of salsa verde. Best quesadilla Lil’ NYC Food Guy has ever had. Thanks to Mark Lewis for recommendation.

Carne Enchilada Taco ($3.00) grilled achiote rubbed pork, cilantro, onions, pineapple, salsa verde. The perfect combo of spicy (tender pork & tangy salsa verde) and sweet (chunks of fresh pineapple).

Papa, Nopales Y Chorizo Taco ($3.50) chorizo sausage, potatoes, cactus, salsa verde. More of a textural adventure with combo of spicy chorizo, starchy potato and crisp yet bland (like cabbage) shredded cactus. Better with a squeeze of lime.

• What: Informal, Affordable & Authentic Mexican Taqueria open until 2AM nightly.
• Where: 106 Kenmare Street b/t Lafayette St. & Cleveland Place NY, NY 10012 Delivery:646-613-1333
• Website: http://www.esquinanyc.com/
• Inside info: The taqueria is a front for the “secret” Mexican restaurant downstairs. You can only reach it by reservation or knowing someone at the door. It’s a scene but it’s also a great date spot.

More Tacos & Mexican Food Here

More Late Night Eats Here