April 29, 2010
Brian De Palma has Scarface. Jimi Hendrix had “All Along the Watchtower.” And Daniel Holzman has his meatballs. Remaking a classic is never easy, but when it’s done right, it’s so sweet you forget there was ever an original version. This is the case with Holzman’s spicy pork meatballs (4 for $7) at his popular new restaurant The Meatball Shop. Just larger than golfball size, each tender meatball splits at the lightest urging of your fork revealing a juicy interior filled with pork butt and pickled cherry pepper. The latter adds a pleasingly assertive level of heat which lingers during and beyond each bite. The bright “classic” tomato sauce pairs nicely, offering a tartness that’s balanced by the use of high quality olive oil. Order the two over al dente rigatoni (plus $4) from the “Stick to your bones” section of the menu or opt for just meatballs and sauce. Either way, it’s all covered in feathers of shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano and no matter what, the best bite will be scooping up the bits of meat and tomato at the bottom of the bowl. Just like Mother intended.
The Meatball Shop Website 84 Stanton Street b/t Orchard St & Allen St New York, NY 10002 212-982-8895 Sun.-Wed. Noon-2AM Thurs.-Sat. Noon-4AM