Pulino’s $14 Midnight Burger Not Worth Waiting Up For

Date April 12, 2010

If there’s one thing in the food world that I feel secure assessing, it’s burgers.  And when a James Beard Rising Star Chef of the Year Award winner begins offering just 30 burgers per night, starting at midnight, I can’t help but get a little excited.  Well the bigger they are, the harder they fall and my expectations dropped like Tiger Woods’ Q rating upon first bite of this burger.

Pulino's Burger - NYCFoodGuy.com

It’s apparent that Nate Appleman is going for simplicity with his griddled burger (which can’t be cooked to order) topped with horseradish cheese and chopped sauteed red onion all inside a squishy white bun.  This works for the fries, which are great.  But unlike the burgers at Burger Joint or Shake Shack, simplicity does not yield genius.

Pulino's Burger - NYCFoodGuy.com

The mildly spicy horseradish cheese and the hastily chopped, sloppily portioned red onion dominate the flavor reducing the presence of the crisp yet juicy burger patty.  If this is the plan, perhaps adding some of the smokey bacon which shined on the Salsiccia breakfast pizza could elevate this burger.  Some may say it’s too soon to “review” this newly introduced burger but when a celebrated chef creates a simple burger, how much leeway should we allow?

Pulino’s Bar & Pizzeria 282 Bowery at Houston St. New York, NY 10012

5 Responses to “Pulino’s $14 Midnight Burger Not Worth Waiting Up For”

  1. Lil NYC Food Gal said:

    Great write up and great pictures, as always! Keep it up!

  2. Dizzle said:

    The bun looks pretty cheap for a $14 1/30 burger.

  3. Mike said:

    I would like to apologize in advance.

    $14 for a burger? What the fuck is wrong with these people???????????????

  4. Robert said:

    Good food is pricless… go to minetta and have a $26 black label burger- mike go spend your $14 at Walmart you strap hanger

  5. Burgers said:

    Or go to burger joint and get the best $8 cheeseburger you’ve ever tasted

Leave a Reply

XHTML: You can use these tags: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <s> <strike> <strong>