The Collective: Zany New Restaurant in Meatpacking District Serving Gimmicky (But Surprisingly Good) Food Until 4AM Thursday-Sunday

March 25, 2010

A designer denim couch? A pill bottle chandelier? A wall made of slot machines? Not a scene you’d expect to find in the Meatpacking District.  And not a place you’d expect to find NYC Food Guy.  But in New York, anything is possible, even on a Tuesday.  That’s how I found myself at the opening party for The Collective, a slightly schizophrenic new restaurant made of completely recycled material.  Most of the slightly gimmicky, “Taste of the Hoods”-based menu (pdf) wasn’t served, but as I navigated my way under the Styrofoam ceiling and past scrabble board-topped tables, the few bites I did find were surprisingly good.  Read on for a closer look…

“Burger Royale with Cheese of course”

This mini burger (it’s not a slider) quickly sheds its fast food-inspired name for gourmet ingredients: truffle sauce, gruyere cheese, caramelized onion, and a black sesame seeded bun.  The gruyere provides a subtle backdrop for the truffle sauce while texturally, the crisp caramelized onions, crunchy sesame seeds and charred beef exterior give way to a pleasingly juicy, medium rare interior. ($16)

Blue Cheese Tater Tots

The first housemade tater tot I’ve encountered through all my food adventures more closely resembled a mini knish than the wafery bits of fried potato we’ve been eating since elementary school.  A thin, slightly crisp shell gives way to fluffy potato making for an addictive treat.  The shaved blue cheese (which fortunately didn’t overwhelm) and sweet dipping sauce seemed superfluous in the shadow of tot greatness. ($8 side order)

Pot Belly Pork?

The “Pot Belly Pork” sandwich, featuring cheddar and caramelized onions, is the only pork sandwich on the menu but there were no traces of cheese or onion beneath the airy brioche bun I encountered.  What I did find was sweet, slightly spicy pulled pork that despite being devoid of any smokiness, remained serviceable.  Late night eaters will enjoy this, but I’m forever spoiled.  No pulled pork will ever be as good as the pulled pork from Chris Lilly’s smoker. ($14)

The New Waldorf

When the server told me it was chicken salad resting atop the spear of endive in my hand, my expectations immediately fell.  I’m not a fan of chicken salad, it’s never flavorful. I always end up adding salt and pepper and still being unsatisfied.  But surprises are the theme of the food at The Collective and this chicken salad, which is actually a small taste of “The New Waldorf” (caramelized grapes, walnuts and arugula) had enough flavor to avoid any extra seasoning. ($14)

Asparagus-Truffle Hollandaise

I’ll be passing on the $8 side order of asparagus-truffle hollandaise if I’m back at The Collective.  If asparagus aren’t baked to a crisp, they should still retain some of their natural crispness.  Unfortunately, the overbearing hollandaise doesn’t allow the asparagus to do either.

Deviled Eggs with Truffle Salt & Radish

This appetizer is actually advertised as a trio of deviled eggs featuring the truffle version below plus one with smoked paprika and another with “bacon-n-cheddar.”  The radish-topped “truffle” version has to be the least delectable of the trio.  Like the asparagus, the radish (added specifically for texture due to its subdued flavor) was sliced too thin to offer any crispness.  Instead, it detracted from the flavor of the truffle salt and the lightness of the egg white and fluffy yolk.

Intriguing Menu Items to Try

If you’re planning a trip to The Collective, here are two items I’d still like to try since they were not offered at the event I attended:

• “Disco Fries ($10) – most likely The Collective version of poutine, fries topped with gravy and cheese curds.
• Short Rib Sliders ($13) with creamy horseradish sauce

The Space

Check out Gothamist’s gallery of the restaurant space.

The Collective

http://www.onelittlewest12.com/collectiveny/

1 Little West 12th Street

New York, NY 10014

212-255-9717

Posted in MANHATTAN, MEATPACKING, The Collective